AZELACTIVE®
Azelaic Acid Performance Without Technical Limits in a patented polymer
INCI
Polyglyceryl-6 Azelate
Sebum Normalization
Tone & Pigmentation Control
Redness Reduction
DHT Modulation
AZELACTIVE® – Polymeric Azelaic Acid for Skin & Scalp Care
AZELACTIVE® is a patented polymer-bound azelaic acid (40% w/w) designed to improve solubility, pH flexibility and skin tolerability while preserving the well-known efficacy of azelaic acid. By esterifying azelaic acid to a polyglyceryl-6 backbone, AZELACTIVE® overcomes the formulation limits of free azelaic acid and delivers controlled cosmetic performance in skin and scalp applications.
Azelaic Acid in Cosmetics: Relevance and Technical Constraints
Azelaic acid is widely used in cosmetic formulations for acne-prone, seborrheic, uneven and redness-prone skin. However, free azelaic acid presents several formulation challenges:
- Limited water solubility
- Strong pH dependency
- High acid reactivity
- Potential irritation at higher effective levels
These factors may restrict formulation flexibility and impact skin tolerability.
A Polymeric Approach to Azelaic Acid Efficiency
AZELACTIVE® is a patented azelaic acid derivative in which 40% azelaic acid is chemically bound to a polyglyceryl-6 backbone. This polymeric structure:
- Enhances water dispersibility
- Ensures stability from pH 2 to 8
- Significantly reduces acid number (20 vs ~600 mg KOH/g)
- Supports improved skin compatibility
The result is a stable and formulation-friendly azelaic acid system suitable for modern cosmetic applications.
Comparative solubility test showing enhanced water dispersibility of AZELACTIVE® versus conventional azelaic acid powder in cosmetic formulations.
pH compatibility test illustrating the stability of AZELACTIVE® compared to traditional azelaic acid in different pH environments.
Clinical Evaluation vs Conventional Azelaic Acid
A 28-day in vivo study compared 10% conventional azelaic acid with 5% and 10% AZELACTIVE® under daily use conditions in acne-prone skin.
SEBUM NORMALIZATION
A statistically significant reduction in skin sebum content was observed across tested systems, accompanied by a visible decrease in surface gloss.
All treatments promoted a measurable shift from oily levels toward physiological sebum values.
PROTOPORPHYRIN REDUCTION
A statistically significant reduction in skin sebum content was observed across tested systems, accompanied by a visible decrease in surface gloss.
All treatments promoted a measurable shift from oily levels toward physiological sebum values.
TOTAL LESIONS REDUCTION
A reduction in protoporphyrin-associated signals was observed across tested systems, indicating modulation of follicular bacterial activity.
These results reflect a positive effect on the follicular microenvironment linked to acne-prone skin.
SKIN SMOOTHNESS IMPROVEMENT
Clinically assessed smoothness increased significantly
under all treatment conditions.
The observed improvement reflects enhanced surface uniformity and refinement of acne-related irregularities.
AZELACTIVE® contains 40% w/w azelaic acid chemically bound within its polymeric structure:
-
5% AZELACTIVE® corresponds to 2% azelaic acid equivalent
-
10% AZELACTIVE® corresponds to 4% azelaic acid equivalent
Comparable clinical performance was achieved with up to 5× lower azelaic acid equivalent levels.
EFFICACY TESTS
EFFICACY ON SKIN
Improved skin tone
The skin faces issues like hyperpigmentation, excess sebum, rosacea, and acne, impacting its health and appearance. Sun exposure, aging, and inflammation can trigger dark spots, while excessive sebum leads to clogged pores, breakouts, and sensitivity.
In a clinical study, a 5% AZELACTIVE® face cream was tested against a placebo, demonstrating significant efficacy in addressing these concerns. Its clinically validated benefits include evening skin tone, regulating sebum production, and soothing sensitive skin.
REDUCED DARK SPOTS PIGMENTATION
ITA° increased by +44.4% at T28 and +53.5% at T56.
REDUCED SEBUM CONTENT
Oil content reduced by -12.8% at T28 and -14.7% at T56.
improved skin complexion evenness
After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly improved skin clarity, uniformity, and overall appearance by effectively regulating sebum, reducing pigmentation, and enhancing complexion. By the end of the study, 75% of participants observed visible improvements in skin brightness and tone uniformity, further confirming AZELACTIVE® ability to refine skin texture and correct discoloration.
Reduced rosacea-related issues
5% AZELACTIVE® face cream has been tested against a Placebo on 20 healthy volunteers, aged from 30 to 68, with slight and mild erythema due to rosacea type II (couperose), a chronic skin condition characterized by redness, visible blood vessels, and sensitivity often associated with acne.
The subjects are split into 2 groups: 10 subjects received AZELACTIVE®,10 subjects used the Placebo. Skin moisturization (by Corneometer) and Erythema Index (by Mexameter 18) have been evaluated.
Reduced rosacea-related erythema
Erythema index decreased by -5.3% at T28 and -7.7% at T56.
Reduced rosacea-related dehydration
Moisture levels increased by +16.4% at T28 and +26.7% at T56.
Reduced rosacea-related ISSUES
After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly outperformed the placebo across all evaluated parameters.
Its efficacy in reducing redness and warmth sensation, while providing a calming and hydrating effect, highlights its strong dermocosmetic benefits.
EFFICACY ON SCALP
Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) causes hair follicle miniaturization, weakening, and scalp inflammation. Azelaic acid inhibits 5-alpha reductase, reducing DHT levels, soothing scalp irritation, and preventing microbial imbalances linked to hair thinning.
AZELACTIVE® has been tested, proving its efficacy in scalp care by reducing hair loss and supporting follicle vitality.
ANTI-HAIR LOSS efficacy
In human follicle dermal papilla cells stimulated with Testosterone, AZELACTIVE® significantly reduced (*p<0.05 and ***p<0.001) DHT levels by -52% at 0.1% and -31% at 1% concentration. (C: untreated cells).
Scalp cell vitality support
AZELACTIVE® promotes human follicle dermal papilla cells proliferation (****p<0.0001): +14% at 1% and +9% at 0.3% concentration, further supporting its role in maintaining a healthy scalp. (C: untreated cells).
Key Product Details
% OF USE
1.0 – 10.0 % (Up to 25%)
APPLICATIONS
Ideal for water-based formulations and emulsions.
Suitable for anti-acne, sebum-control, anti-hyperpigmentation,
and scalp-care products.
TECHNICAL DATA
| APPEARANCE | LIQUID |
| COLOUR | YELLOW |
| ODOUR | CHARACTERISTIC |
| DRY RESIDUE (105°C) | 97 – 99 % |
| SOLUBILITY | WATER, ETHANOL, GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL |
| PH (5% WATER SOLUTION AT 25°C) | 2 – 4.5 |
TECHNICAL BENEFITS
- Water-Dispersible System Ensures consistent solubility without precipitation or solvent dependency.
- Broad pH Stability Maintains stability and functional performance across cosmetic pH ranges.
- Reduced Acid Reactivity Lower acid number supports improved skin compatibility.
- Clinically Demonstrated Efficiency Comparable clinical results vsconventional azelaic acid, achieved with up to 5× lower azelaic acid equivalent levels.
- Formulation-Friendly & Versatile Suitable for serums, gels, emulsions and surfactant-based systems.
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