AZELACTIVE®
Patented pH-resistant, water-soluble Azelaic acid polymer for skincare and haircare applications
INCI
Azelaic acid/Polyglyceryl-6 copolymer (proposed INCI)
anti-dark spots
Sebum-Regulating
Soothing & anti-redness
Anti-Hair Loss
Azelaic acid is a well-known dicarboxylic acid widely used in dermatology for its ability to regulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and brighten the skin. However, traditional forms, including pure azelaic acid and its salified derivatives, often present challenges in terms of solubility and stability. While salified versions improve solubility, they tend to precipitate over time, compromising formulation integrity. Additionally, conventional azelaic acid is pH-dependent, restricting its application in certain cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations and often leading to irritation.
AZELACTIVE® overcomes these limitations with a patented esterified form of azelaic acid with polyglyceryl-6, ensuring full water solubility, pH resistance, and superior skin compatibility. Unlike traditional azelaic acid, it does not require strong solvents, does not precipitate in formulations, and remains effective at any pH.
Additionally, AZELACTIVE® features a low acid number (20 mgKOH/g) compared to pure azelaic acid (600 mgKOH/g), significantly reducing irritation while maintaining efficacy. This makes it an ideal solution for sensitive skin and a wide range of cosmetic and dermatological applications.
MULTIFUNCTIONAL BENEFITS
AZELACTIVE® provides a wide range of multifunctional benefits for both skin and scalp health:
- Sebum regulation: Effectively balances oil production for a healthier skin environment.
- Skin tone improvement: Reduces hyperpigmentation, promoting an even and brighter complexion.
- Soothing and anti-inflammatory action: Helps reduce irritation and redness, making it particularly beneficial for sensitive skin.
- Hydration and skin barrier support: Enhances moisture retention and strengthens the skin barrier for lasting hydration and resilience.
When applied to the scalp and hair, AZELACTIVE® demonstrates remarkable efficacy in reducing hair loss by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase and lowering DHT levels, preventing follicle miniaturization. It regulates excess oil production, promoting a balanced and healthier scalp environment while also helping to soothe inflammation and irritation. These combined actions support scalp vitality and contribute to stronger, healthier hair.
EFFICACY TESTS
EFFICACY ON SKIN
Improved skin tone
The skin faces issues like hyperpigmentation, excess sebum, rosacea, and acne, impacting its health and appearance. Sun exposure, aging, and inflammation can trigger dark spots, while excessive sebum leads to clogged pores, breakouts, and sensitivity.
In a clinical study, a 5% AZELACTIVE® face cream was tested against a placebo, demonstrating significant efficacy in addressing these concerns. Its clinically validated benefits include evening skin tone, regulating sebum production, and soothing sensitive skin.
REDUCED DARK SPOTS PIGMENTATION
ITA° increased by +44.4% at T28 and +53.5% at T56.
REDUCED SEBUM CONTENT
Oil content reduced by -12.8% at T28 and -14.7% at T56.
improved skin complexion evenness
After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly improved skin clarity, uniformity, and overall appearance by effectively regulating sebum, reducing pigmentation, and enhancing complexion. By the end of the study, 75% of participants observed visible improvements in skin brightness and tone uniformity, further confirming AZELACTIVE® ability to refine skin texture and correct discoloration.
Reduced rosacea-related issues
5% AZELACTIVE® face cream has been tested against a Placebo on 20 healthy volunteers, aged from 30 to 68, with slight and mild erythema due to rosacea type II (couperose), a chronic skin condition characterized by redness, visible blood vessels, and sensitivity often associated with acne.
The subjects are split into 2 groups: 10 subjects received AZELACTIVE®,10 subjects used the Placebo. Skin moisturization (by Corneometer) and Erythema Index (by Mexameter 18) have been evaluated.
Reduced rosacea-related erythema
Erythema index decreased by -5.3% at T28 and -7.7% at T56.
Reduced rosacea-related dehydration
Moisture levels increased by +16.4% at T28 and +26.7% at T56.
Reduced rosacea-related ISSUES
After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly outperformed the placebo across all evaluated parameters.
Its efficacy in reducing redness and warmth sensation, while providing a calming and hydrating effect, highlights its strong dermocosmetic benefits.
EFFICACY ON SCALP
Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) causes hair follicle miniaturization, weakening, and scalp inflammation. Azelaic acid inhibits 5-alpha reductase, reducing DHT levels, soothing scalp irritation, and preventing microbial imbalances linked to hair thinning.
AZELACTIVE® has been tested, proving its efficacy in scalp care by reducing hair loss and supporting follicle vitality.
ANTI-HAIR LOSS efficacy
In human follicle dermal papilla cells stimulated with Testosterone, AZELACTIVE® significantly reduced (*p<0.05 and ***p<0.001) DHT levels by -52% at 0.1% and -31% at 1% concentration. (C: untreated cells).
Scalp cell vitality support
AZELACTIVE® promotes human follicle dermal papilla cells proliferation (****p<0.0001): +14% at 1% and +9% at 0.3% concentration, further supporting its role in maintaining a healthy scalp. (C: untreated cells).
Key Product Details
% OF USE
2.0 – 25.0 % (Up to 50%)
APPLICATIONS
Ideal for water-based formulations and emulsions.
Suitable for anti-acne, sebum-control, anti-hyperpigmentation,
and scalp-care products.
TECHNICAL DATA
| APPEARANCE | LIQUID |
| COLOUR | YELLOW |
| ODOUR | CHARACTERISTIC |
| DRY RESIDUE (105°C) | 97 – 99 % |
| SOLUBILITY | WATER, ETHANOL, GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL |
| PH (5% WATER SOLUTION AT 25°C) | 2 – 4.5 |
TECHNICAL BENEFITS
- 100% Water-Soluble – No precipitation or solvent dependency.
- Stable at Any pH – Unlike traditional azelaic acid, it ensures deep penetration and remains effective in various pH environments.
- Biomimetic & Multifunctional – Inspired by natural processes for superior skin and scalp care.
- Safe, Biodegradable & Easy to Formulate – Non-irritating and versatile across multiple cosmetic applications.
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