HYDRO-B18®
Water-soluble form of 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid
INCI
Aqua, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Proline
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
ANTIOXiDANT
SOOTHING
HYDRO-B18®, a water-soluble form of 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid, is a transparent, odorless, straw-yellow liquid with a neutral pH. It’s soluble in water, glycerol, and propanediol. Used in skin care and personal hygiene, it enhances penetration, reduces redness, soothes itching, and moisturizes.
With tensioactive and self-emulsifying properties, it stabilizes emulsions and offers antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Suitable for sensitive skin, it’s effective in products targeting edema and under-eye bags.
HYDRO-B18® forms larger, stiffer micelles, reducing interaction with the skin barrier, and integrates well with advanced delivery systems like liposomes and nanoemulsions. It meets BDIH and COSMOS criteria.
18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizin, and their derivatives are deemed safe for cosmetic use by the CIR Expert Panel. With a long history and confirmed effectiveness by modern pharmacology, these ingredients are versatile in cosmetics.
HYDRO-B18®, with high purity, is safe and eases quality control in formulations. Its development addresses the challenges of solubility and selective release of 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid, making it a valuable ingredient in products for sensitive skin, including those with atopic, allergic, or contact dermatitis, affirming its importance in the evolving cosmetic landscape.
EFFICACY TESTS
ERYTHEMA INDEX REDUCTION
HYDRO-B18® shows a soothing efficacy proven by in-vivo tests.
The erythema was induced by applying 20 μl/cm2 of a 3.5% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). The graph shows the effect of the application of HYDRO-B18®, Bisalbolol and Ammonium Gycyrrhizate, after 4 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours from patch removal
HYDRO-B18® reduces the erythema index: -17% after 48h, -21% after 72h: more than standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.
TRANS EPIDERMAL WATER LOSS
HYDRO-B18® reduces the TEWL index as shown in the graph: -16% after 48h (two applications), as standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.
We can conclude that HYDRO-B18® shows a soothing efficacy after the exposure to the irritating agent SLS.
Key Product Details
% OF USE
1.0 – 1.2%
APPLICATIONS
Skincare: transparent gels and emulsions for sensistive and irritated skins.
Sun care: after-sun transparent gels and emulsions
TECHNICAL DATA
| APPEARANCE | CLEAR LIQUID |
| COLOUR | BROWN |
| ODOUR | CHARACTERISTIC |
| PH | 5.5 – 7.5 |
| DRY RESIDUE (105°C) | 65 – 67 % |
| SPECIFIC GRAVITY (25°C) | 1.17 ÷ 1.21 |
PROPERTIES
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Transparent Solubility and Plant-Derived: Soluble in demineralized water at pH 7-9, with surfactant presence expanding its transparent solubility across a wider pH range. Made from 100% plant-derived, palm-free ingredients, ensuring sustainability and eco-friendliness.
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Cortisone-Like Ingredient: Contains glycyrrhetinic acid, which relieves skin irritations without the side effects of corticosteroids. Ideal for daily preventive skincare, especially for sensitive skin and infants.
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Anti-Itching Action: Glycyrrhetinic acid reduces itching and chronic pruritus by lowering leukotriene levels.
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Anti-Melanogenic Action: In vitro studies show that glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid prevent oxidative damage from sun exposure.
EN 
IT