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HYDRO-B18®

Water-soluble form of 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid


INCI

AQUA, POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE, GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID, PROLINE

DESCRIPTION

Natural 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic delivered in polyglycerol medium.
HYDRO-B18® is a cutting-edge water-soluble form of natural 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid which - in its original form - has poor bioavailability and very low water solubility. 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid is regarded as one of the most effective functional ingredients in nature with marked anti-inflammatory and soothing activity. It finds extensive use in the pharmaceutical sector and is often used in its derived salified version.
HYDRO-B18® contains 10% of free and intact 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid delivered in a 100% plant derived medium.

ORIGIN

Natural 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic delivered in polyglycerol medium.

PROPERTIES

  • Transparent soluble in demineralized water at pH 7-9. The presence of surfactant allows to widen its transparent solubility in a wider pH range.
  • 100% plant-derived and palm-free.
  • CORTISONE-LIKE INGREDIENT: cortisone-like ingredients such as glycyrrhetinic acid, relieves skin irritations without the typical side effects of corticosteroids. It can be applied daily as part of a preventive skin care regime for sensitive skin and especially in skin care products for infants who have not yet developed a protective hydro-lipid film or acid mantle.
  • ANTI-ITCHING ACTION: Glycyrrhetinic acid reduces the rise of the itching. In particular, it has been shown the role of glycyrrhetinic acid in reducing the chronic pruritus by reducing the level of leukotrienes produced.
  • ANTI-MELANOGENIC ACTION: In vitro studies on cell lines have shown that a treatment with glycyrrhizin and its aglycone, glycyrrhetinic acid — both before and during sun exposure — prevents oxidative damage.

APPLICATIONS

  • Sensitive skins, After-sun and Shooting transparent water-based applications.
  • Ideal to be incorporated in natural and biodegradable OW and WO emulsions.

TEST

In-vivo tests demonstrate soothing activity:
  • 16% TEWL - after 2 applications of a cream containing 1% HYDRO-B18® on SDS-induced erythema
  • 21% erythema index after 3 applications of a cream containing 1% HYDRO-B18® on SDS-induced erythema
  • In-vivo comparative tests show that HYDRO-B18® is more effective in treating erythema than standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.

CHARACTERISTICS

APPEARANCECLEAR LIQUID
COLOURLIGHT YELLOW
ODOURCHARACTERISTIC
PH7.5 – 9.5
DRY RESIDUE (105°C)55 ÷ 57 %
SPECIFIC GRAVITY (25°C)1.13 ÷ 1.15 G/ML
SOLUBILITYTRANSPARENT SOLUBLE IN DEMINERALIZED WATER AT PH 7-9. THE PRESENCE OF SURFACTANT ALLOWS TO WIDEN ITS TRANSPARENT SOLUBILITY IN A WIDER PH RANGE.

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